Expert Advice

The History and Evolution of Nike’s Air Max Line

Mar 7, 2024

Talk to any sneaker collector, from the small-town sneakerhead to the founders of Nice Kicks and Complex, and they’re nearly 100% likely to tell you that there’s at least one pair of Nike Air Max sneakers among their most-coveted shoes. And for good reason.

Nike’s revolutionary Air Max collection changed the face of sneaker culture when it hit in 1987. Its trademark Air technology is a reminder of the brand’s constant drive to innovate and push forward in search of comfort and performance. But before we can look toward the future wonders that this game-changing shoe has in store for the next generation, it’s important to pay respects to the epic history and evolution of the Nike Air Max family.

Continue reading to learn more about where the Air Max came from, the eye-popping lineup of styles it’s taken on over the years and where it’s headed in the 21st century.


1978: Air Max Technology is Born

1978: Air Max Technology is Born

Frank Rudy dreamed big. After all, he’d been an aerospace engineer — and if you’re not shooting for the stars, well, what’s the point of being a part of NASA? Rudy’s true calling was to be an inventor, and in the late 1960s, he followed his passion and went on to hold more than 250 patents throughout his lifetime.

His best-known hit, however, was the little bags of air he inserted into athletic shoes to help cushion the impact for runners. Convinced these were the answer to runners’ problems, he began shopping his air idea to dozens of sneaker companies. All rejected it — that is until Rudy brought his idea to Nike co-founder Phil Knight.


Ding! Ding! Ding!


In 1978, after exhaustive testing on how best to manufacture these Air bags so that they withstood the pronation of runners without popping under the pressure, the first shoe featuring the technology launched. The Nike Tailwind, a running shoe, quickly sold out.

1987-1989: The First Air Maxes Arrive

1987-1989: The First Air Maxes Arrive

Tinker Hatfield started his Nike career in the decade of power ballads, big hair, shoulder pads and acid-wash jeans. Upon graduating as an architect in 1981, Hatfield joined the Nike family and began tinkering with sneaker designs.

1987-1989: The First Air Maxes Arrive

With his architect’s eye, the young, hungry Hatfield began looking for something new and exciting in the shoe world. He became fascinated by the art museum Centre Pompidou in Paris — a building whose outside is packed with exposed air ducts, escalators, plumbing and electrical cables. Its intentionally unfinished look is either an eyesore or a vision, depending on whom you poll.

1987-1989: The First Air Maxes Arrive

In 1987, a decade after the Tailwind’s release, Hatfield took the Centre Pompidou’s outward-facing design inspiration and ran with it, building a window into the Air Max 1 shoe so everyone could see into Frank Rudy’s cushioning system.

The earliest of all Air Max shoes, the Air Max 1 became a runaway hit and kickstarted a new era of bold sneaker design that mixed artistry with athletic performance.


In the 1980s, another two Air Max releases landed: the 1988 Nike Air Walker Max, designed specifically for fitness enthusiasts in the leisure lane, and the Air Max Lite in 1989.

1987-1989: The First Air Maxes Arrive

Air Max in the 1990s

Hip-hop, JNCOs jeans, the internet — the ’90s tore through trends at the speed of light, and the rollout of Air Max styles moved with the times. First up was the Air Max 90 with its exaggerated Air window and large Air cushion. This iconic Air Max model would go on to be arguably the most popular of the entire Air Max collection.

1991 – 1993 : The Air Classic BW updated the AM 90 with a bigger Air window than the OG, hence the “BW” in its name. 


The Air Max 180 also released in 1991, featuring a 180-degree view of the sneaker’s of Air unit via windows on each side and an exposed section of Air cushioning on the outsole. 


In 1992, the Air Max line left behind the 180-degree window, but improved the line’s stability with the Air Max ST. This model featured the collection’s largest Air unit so far and connected the cushioning system to the sneaker’s forefoot via its Nike Footbridge tech. 


Then came the Air Max 93. In a stroke of inspiration, this model’s design drew inspiration from a milk jug and introduced a blow-molded Air visibility window that wrapped the entire silhouette’s heel.

19941996: The Air Max 94 was released in both mid and low top versions. This release closely resembled its predecessor but divided the wrap-around Air unit into separate windows on the sides and one at the heel. Also, like the AM 93 before it, the AM 94 maintained a bootie-like sockliner that allowed your foot to slide effortlessly in and out.


With the Air Max 95, the Air Max line introduced the first shoe with visible Air in the forefoot — creating one of the most iconic types of Air Max shoes in the process. Sergio Lozano found inspiration for the AM 95’s layered design from the way water erodes the land to reveal bands of earth layered atop one another year after year. (Think the Grand Canyon.) Lozano also found inspiration by studying human anatomy. The bands and layers of the Air Max 95’s upper mimic the body’s skin, muscle and bone structure.


The Air Racer Max also debuted in ’95. With its flatter sole, mesh upper and ultra-slim 270-degree Air unit, the Racer Max was a competitive running shoe disguised as a stylish lifestyle sneaker.


A year later, the Air Max 96 dropped. Another Sergio Lozano creation, the Air Max 96 featured leather and mesh waves on its upper, dual-density Air units in the forefoot and heel, and a chunky dad-shoe aesthetic.

1997 Air Max

1997: A decade after the Air Max 1 debuted the first visible Air window, the Air Max 97 released with a full-length Air cushioning system. The Christian Tessler-designed shoe made waves in the sneaker community for its never-before-seen Air unit and its bullet train-like shape. From a birdseye view, the sneaker’s rippled layers resemble the ripples created by water droplets on a pond’s surface.

Air Max 1998

1998: The Air Max 98 boasted a stockier silhouette than many previous releases and a full-length Max Air unit. Remember how 90s fashion was filled with big, bold, mismatched styles? The AM 98 was the embodiment of this trend.

Air Max 1998

’98 saw another two releases from the Air Max line as well: The AM 98 TL, a more streamlined and sleek version of the OG Air Max 98, and the Air Max 98 Plus. Nike designer Sean McDowell created the sneaker’s distinctive look by incorporating symbols of his home state, Florida, including sunset-inspired gradient color schemes and overlays that mirrored swaying palm trees.

The AM 98 Plus also featured Nike’s newest iteration of its Air tech: Tuned Air, which used rubber hemispheres throughout the sole to deliver more stability at a lower air pressure.

Air Max 1999

1999: One year before the turn of the century, Nike released the Air Max Deluxe and the Air Tuned Max. The former was the first Nike sneaker to feature full digital print graphics on its neoprene upper, and its Foamposite heel spoke to the style of basketball shoe growing in popularity at the time.

The latter, the Air Tuned Max, finds itself among the ranks of least-favorite Max models in the sneaker community. Haters of this shoe claim that it tried too hard to do too much. Full-length Tuned Air? Check. Foamposite heel? Check. Iridescent elliptical overlays? Check. Vein-like lace cage? Check. All that said, the shoe still has its defenders, who insist that it was secretly a misunderstood superstar.

Nike Air Maxes from the Early 2000s

The ‘00s rang in the era of boot cut jeans, “Sex and the City” and Y2K. Things slowed down for the Air Max line in the early years of the decade with just two flagship signature Air Max releases: the Air Max 2003 in ’03 and 2006’s Air Max 360 with its 360-degree Air visibility.


(Well, to be fair, there were a few Air Maxes released from 2000 to 2002 and again in 2004 and 2005, but their time in the spotlight was short-lived.)


2003: After the 1999 Tuned Max release that featured everything but the kitchen sink, Nike creators took a more minimalist design approach to the Air Max 2003. This inaugural signature Air Max release of the 21st century was clean, sleek and almost utilitarian thanks to the AM 2003’s full-length Max Air cushioning, lightweight construction and function over fashion appearance.


2006: Nearly 20 years after the AM 1’s release, the sneaker community began to wonder if they would ever see a Nike Air Max sneaker cushioned entirely by Air. Well, that year the 2006 Air Max 360 launched featuring — you guessed it — 360-degrees of visible full-length Air.


From 2007 to 2010, Nike churned out a number of additional Air Max models that weren’t as hyped up as the 2003 and 2006 releases. These included the Air Max 360 II in ’07 and the AM 360 III in ’08, the Air Max 2009 the following year and the Air Max 2010 at the end of the decade.

Air Max 1998

2010s Air Maxes: Flyknit, VaporMax, and Beyond

No game-changing releases came from the Air Max line from 2011 to 2013, but then came the 2014 release of the AM 2014 Flyknit, the first AM sneaker to utilize the brand’s breathable, flexible, sock-like material.

Air Max 1998

The next big thing in Air arrived the following year with the Air Max 2015, which replaced the 2014’s Flyknit upper in favor of re-engineered mesh. The AM 2015 featured a tubular Max Air unit midsole and a flex grooved outsole, too.

Nike also launched the Air Max Zero in 2015, the sneaker that came before the Air Max 1 (in design only.) The Air Max Zero was originally conceptualized in 1985, two years before the birth of the AM 1, but the design was so before its time that it couldn’t be produced. A few tweaks gave us the Air Max 1 of 1987. Sneakerheads praised this throwback-of-throwbacks for its ability to take a piece of genuine Nike history and update it for the 21st century.

Other significant releases in the years after included:

2018: Until 2018, Nike Air Max sneakers catered to the runner or athlete consumer, but sneakerheads had jumped on the Air bandwagon years before that. The Nike Air Max 270 released as the first Air Max branded as a lifestyle sneaker, complete with an elevated 32mm tall Air Max cushioning system and stylized elements borrowed from the Air Max 180 and AM 93.


2019: The Air Max 720 and the Air Max 200, both launched in 2019, employed larger Air units than any Air Max model that came before.


The Air Max 200, which looks like a mix of the Air Max 190 and AM 90, is packed with 200% more Air in its cushioning unit. Meanwhile, the Air Max 720, with its alienesque aesthetic, rides atop a 37 mm full-length lifestyle Air unit.

The 2020s: A New Generation of Nike Air Max

2020: 2020 was a whirlwind year in just about every way possible. But Nike stayed focused on the future of flight, releasing the space-age-style Air Max 2090 in honor of the Air Max 90’s 30th anniversary. Heavily influenced by the AM 90, the AM 2090 gets substantially more visibility in the Air unit than its inspiration and features updated flex grooves on its waffle outsole.


2021: Nike looked back to the future in 2021 with the release of the Nike Air Max Pre-Day, which takes the classic look of heritage Nike running into a new realm. Recycled materials on the upper keep the retro track aesthetic while the new Air window energizes the look, mixing head-turning style with unbelievably soft cushioning.


2022: First launched in 2022, the Nike Air Max Dawn is rooted to track DNA, and made with at least 20% recycled material by weight. Synthetic suede and textile materials blend vintage running vibes with clean-lined details, including a retro pill-shaped window that recalls the OG masters.


2022 also brought us the Air Max Pulse, a casual lifestyle shoe that borrowed the 270’s signature wraparound Air unit. The Pulse distinguished itself with its streamlined but multi-layered design, featuring a knit upper gracefully overlaid with leather and a striking double Swoosh. It’s a shoe for daily life as much as for the gym or the track, with a point-loaded cushioning system that helps target weight distribution for maximum comfort.


2023: After the subtlety of the Pulse, it was time to get funky again — and in 2023, the Nike Air Max Plus Drift became one of the wildest shoes on the market. Designer Sean McDowell took the Air Max Plus and turned everything up to 11, with the classic sole tooling and Air unit from McDowell’s 1998 original giving way to an upper that looks downright extraterrestrial.


2024: The time is right for the Air Max to evolve again, and now, the Nike design lab has blessed Air Max lovers with the brand-new Nike Air Max Dn. The Air Max Dn lays out a new plan for ultimate comfort, with a Dynamic Air unit


that uses two sets of dual-pressure tubes. Your heel gets the firmest pressure for robust support, while your midfoot gets the softest pressure for a seamless transition.

Nike Air Max 101

It’s worth knowing these basics about all Nike Air Max models.

  • When is Nike Air Max day?
    • Since 2014, March 26th has been Nike Air Max Day. Every year, shoe lovers take this day to celebrate the bottomless bounce and unique vibe of Air Maxes. Nike obliges with exclusive Air Max drops leading up to the big day, including special editions and brand-new releases.
  • What was the first Nike Air Max shoe?
    • The first Air Max model was the Air Max 1, which debuted in 1985 and gave us the trademark Air Unit built into the heel. It’s a cross-generational classic that’s still getting sought-after reissues to this day.
  • Are Nike Air Maxes good for running?
    • Most current Air Max models are at their best as casual everyday shoes, but the VaporMax line and some other models are designed with the track in mind. If you’re a serious runner searching for maximum performance, Hibbett’s full collection of Nike running shoes has what you need.
  • How do you clean Nike Air Max shoes?
    • We recommend cleaning your Air Max sneakers the same way you clean most sneakers: a gentle scrub using shoe cleaner and a soft cloth. (You can also make your own shoe cleaner using mild laundry soap or baking soda.) On the other hand, we strongly advise you not to put your Air Maxes in the washing machine or dryer.
  • Can I wear Nike Air Max every day?
    • Every Nike Air Max model is made for day-in, day-out comfort and support — so yes, you can absolutely wear them every day. Many Air Max designs are on the flashy and colorful side, so they might not be what you’re looking for in a dressier situation. When you need to level up your formality but keep the competitive spirit, check out our full Nike Air Max Collection.

March is Nike Air Max Month, but you can tell the story of Air Max all year long when you shop our extensive collection of Air Max models, available in men’s, women’s, and kids’ sizes online and at your local Hibbett.

Stay up to date with new Air Max releases by following our Launch Calendar and downloading our Hibbett app. Plus, find the Air Max model that best matches you and check out all the ways to style your Air Max sneakers with resources from the Unboxed Blog:

Shop the Story